Thursday, December 15

Brain splurge

Wow. Exit: Singapore. Crazy place. Very neat and clean and orderly, but the extreme level of control, remeniscent of Orwell, were too much for me, as was the cost. Enter: Bangkok. But not for long, since I'm tired of big cities and tuk-tuk drivers and noise. So after a thai soup that made me cry and cough and splutter, but was utterly delicious, I got on the train for seldom-visited Kon Kaen. There were almost no white people, and the Thais didn't even understand 'I don't speak English'. For one day, the perfect therapy. The food was astoudingly good, and the Thais smile in such a way, and talk with such a gentle voice (even if I don't understand) that makes me believe the world is a lovely place to be.

And then two angels (I mean that) came and made me know that the world can be beautiful. After being questioned (really just a friendly chat) by the tourist police, who were friendly and taught me Thai as I taught them English, I wandered to the lake. After a few minutes two stunning Thai girls asked me for photos, and within 15 minutes had offered to drive me to the Laos border, which I couldn't refuse. Now these girls taught me the meaning of hospitality. I've been with them for three days (though they've left now), and they've only let me pay for two meals, despite insisting and the value of the pound. They've put me up in luxurious hotels (compared to my usual), known all the right things to say to get around (speaking the language helps), and have ordered mouth-watering Thai and Vietnemese delights, paying for all the entry fees and tuk-tuk fairs as we do the tourist thang. They don't know much English, and I know even less Thai, but what transcends linguistic boundaries has been their open-hearted friendliness that has really blown me away. Falling asleep well-fed, after hot showers and much laughter throughout the day, in clean beds and to the sound of gentle Thai voices, I've learned not that there is such a thing as a free meal, but that some people are loving enough to buy many for you, and not want anything in return.


And now I'm in Laos. The consulate screwed up my visa and made it 60 days instead of 30 at no extra cost, and I'm definitely considering delaying New-Zealand to stay here. The people give slow, friendly, relaxed smiles, but don't demand you buy something. They just smile. Their voices are gentle and calm, as is the pace of life. The beauty equals India, but in different ways. England feels a million miles away and years ago. I'm glimpsing why it was I decided to up and leave, as I've found in fuller force something I glimpsed in Dharamsala. Ahhhhhhh, yes. Peace.


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2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey there, reading this really makes me want to go to Laos, so glad I am... and I hope I will meet those 2 girls. If you'd like to stay in touch => jogailus@gmx.de
Stay healthy
Johannes

18.12.05  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

looks like you'll be having a warm xmas. have a beer on me - i will buy you several on return to the uk - honest! glad you seem to be having a good time: whatever happened to that cynicism about people? rob

23.12.05  

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